“We have set goals validated by the scientific community”: this is how Louis Vuitton plans to be the most sustainable luxury brand in the world

After several years advancing in sustainable policies, Louis Vuitton has set 2025 as the deadline to be the most ecological firm in the 'premium' market. Its president and CEO, Michael Burke, explains the details of this unprecedented challenge in the industry.

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Louis Vuitton 'Hero' BriefcasePhoto: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton

If the almighty Bernard Arnault has a right hand, that is undoubtedly that of Michael Burke. In fact, it could be said that this American manager is largely responsible for the main changes that the luxury industry has experienced in the last twenty years. . He directed the Haute Couture division of Dior in the Galliano era, radically transformed the image of Fendi at the turn of the century, has been an active part in the recent acquisition of Tiffany & Co, of which he is now CEO and since 2012 he has held the position of president and CEO of Louis Vuitton, the jewel in the crown of the LVMH conglomerate and the most profitable luxury brand in the world, according to the ranking prepared each year by the consulting firm Interbrand. Now Burke is facing one of those large-scale challenges that turn the industry upside down: turning Louis Vuitton into a fully sustainable brand. A goal that has a date, 2025. “Ten years ago, sustainability was just an ambition, a positive idea. But science has changed everything. Now we can set ourselves measurable, quantitative goals”, he explains via zoom. "We are now able to proudly say that we are one of the first firms to set short-term challenges validated by the scientific community." For example, the new report on the subject that the teaching has just published, and which details point by point how much plastic was stopped using this year (16%), how many raw materials are organic (52%), how many recycled materials or reused have been used in presentations and events (93%) or what percentage of renewable energy their logistics centers use (63%). The challenge is that, in four years, these and other key elements in the transition reach 100%. “But I don't see it as a challenge, but as a great opportunity, also in the creative field. It cannot be created in a vacuum, without obstacles in between. Creativity arises when you have to adapt to something new, ”he says. “I always give the example of Messi. If he is the best footballer, it is because he invents new tactics based on the defense in front of him”.

Michael Burke Photo: ean-François Robert

Talking about sustainability, at least as a new policy, is not an entirely correct term for Burke either. “Actually, we always have been. Ever since Vuitton was born, in 1854, customers have looked to us for a long-lasting product made with natural materials. We have been repairing thousands of products a year for decades. This is not new to us,” he says. ”What's more, people all their lives have repaired their bags and shoes. The idea of ​​novelty is relatively recent, a few years ago. The industry forgot how important it is to preserve objects. But we never did." The key difference for Burke is that Louis Vuitton “is not a fashion house, but a luxury one. A typical fashion brand has to face other different problems, such as where its products come from or how they are made. In luxury, that does not usually happen”, he points out. Nothing has changed and, at the same time, everything has changed, “because the difference with respect to then is that now the environmental impact can be quantified. That is why the client is demanding much more information”. Quantify and innovate. Because in the last year Louis Vuitton has launched products that would have been unthinkable five years ago: from the Charlie sneakers, a unisex model made with biological and recycled materials, to the Felt bags, made up of leftovers from other products. “All the people involved in each of the departments have to have the same mentality, take into account what can or cannot be recycled and reused. Only in this way can a project of this magnitude work”, explains the CEO.

“Nos hemos puesto objetivos validados por la comunidad científica”: así es como Louis Vuitton planea ser la marca de lujo más sostenible del mundo

'Charlie' sneakers made from recycled materials Photo: Courtesy of Louis vuitton

The question is whether an initiative of this magnitude, which aims to implement a minimum environmental impact in all processes, entails cutting the volume of production or an increase in market prices. "No, it's not more expensive," he says. “At least, it does not imply a higher material cost to produce in an ecological way. But it does take time, the time it takes to train our suppliers to work with this policy. In fact, it is even cheaper to do, for example, a sustainable parade. Yes, it is more complicated. In fact, I think that sometimes many companies do not face this issue precisely for that reason, because of the complexity and the time that must be dedicated to it”.
The pandemic has not taught Louis Vuitton to produce more ecologically (that was a project that was already underway) but it has taught it to work in a different way: "it has made our businesses more local, more decentralized," he explains. “That for some may be negative, because we have to foster confidence in the local teams, but for us it is positive. It has made us stronger, more resilient, more cooperative. All those values ​​create a much more positive and creative environment.” An environment conducive to facing a challenge (or, as he would say, an opportunity) like this: “Because when it comes to environmental issues, it is no use giving 'vertical' orders. You have to have faith in the teams and in their commitment”.

The Beaulieu atelier of the French house

With sights set on 2025, if a brand of the size and notoriety of Louis Vuitton meets all the goals set, the milestone would mean a real change in the luxury sector, because many would come later. "But before all that is the change in mentalities and consumer behavior," says Burke. “You have to work on both aspects at the same time: the material and the mental, because one thing doesn't make sense without the other. And it is time to do it, because after this crisis people are much more committed and aware that there is another way of doing things”.

Tags: Louis Vuitton|sustainability

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