Natural wines, demonization of industrial?

Some wine producers have decided to say goodbye to stainless steel tanks, bought yeasts or acidity correctors to embrace a minority trend even but that their defenders defend ultranza ensuring that it will not be a passing fashion.

Natural wines are born in the heat of the traditional and the sustainable.There are many small Spanish producers who could embrace this trend and in fact there is already a group that groups them, the Association of Natural Wines Producers, which criticizes the lack of information to the consumer, which ignores (say) manipulation and processes to the processes toThose who submitted industrial wine.Artisanal against industrial, all wines are a natural food, or not?With our sommelier Javier Campo we delve into natural wines.

Let's start by clarifying concepts, what do we understand by natural wine and what distinguishes it from the organic or ecological?

A natural wine is fermented grape juice without more.In the ecological wine process, or chemical pesticides have not been used.Organic wine, like the ecological, does not use chemicals, uses indigenous yeasts, works without machinery, etc.The three terms have coincidences but the differences are found above all in the philosophy of who makes the wine.However, in the case of natural wines, for example, parameters are missing in their regulation because it is difficult to agree on what are the rules and that is not positive.

Those who bet on this type of elaborations indicate that they are wines to which "absolutely nothing" is not added, not even sulphites, do you think a current consumer can understand what that means?

There are those who think that the wine must have a certain life cycle and therefore add nothing.The consumer profile is closely linked to that of the producer by a philosophy of life and values that flee consumerism and industrialization as a concept.Obviously, this affects the conservation and durability of the wine, so the consumer must be willing to accept this philosophy of making the wine.

The Association of Natural Wine Producers criticizes that wineries hide information to the consumer and do not report the manipulations to which the wine is subjected, do we lack information as consumers?

Vinos naturales, ¿demonización de lo industrial?

The market, not only in wine, is full of "absence" of information in the elaborations and in the content of the products.At the consumer level and for health reasons, we would not consume many things if we knew how they are made.The same thing happens in the wine.What we cannot say that drinking wine with sulphites can produce an anaphylactic shock and death, because there are hundreds of foods that can also produce it.

The allergen and toxic contents of a food exist, whether ecological, natural, organic, industrial or any other types, there are hundreds of examples, from the balloon fish to the little kitchens, which are toxic and yet they are consumed ..The problem is to radicalize everything.Neither unnatural wines are worse, nor natural, better.Of course, care is always beneficial in the elaboration of any product, it was included, but we cannot demonize.

Do you think this type of elaborations are a fashion arising in the line of the return to the ecological and artisanal that we are living in recent years?

I think the line has never been lost.It has always worked naturally, or in an ecological, or organic or biodynamic way ... But, many people seek differentiating elements.I speak of producers and consumers.There are people who have worked very well for many years and does not make noise.Maybe because it doesn't need it.

In the United States, natural and ecological wines are perceived as good health products, and consumers are willing to pay more for them, do you think this trend will be implanted in Spain?

As is the panorama, no.Wine is not a product of first necessity, unfortunately.People are looking for a price and that the product they buy is easy to interpret.The issue of the environment does not worry too much, even if they tell you yes.People are quite false in that regard.Not all, of course.

Its defenders say that "drinking natural wines is taking wines with landscape and soul in front of the monotonous imaginary built by the great industry", are natural wines a response to the excessive industrialization of this product of the earth?

Buying a chalet on the banks of the natural park of "I don't know where" also has landscape.That is a bullshit.There are wonderful landscapes with natural wines and unnatural wines.And there is so much soul in an unnatural wine as in the natural.Or is it that who does it does not make effort, effort and affection as soon as he uses "something" that is not natural?It is somewhat demagogue and a sales tool.

Do you think the wine industry has somehow lost the soul to the point that this movement of natural wines has emerged in response?

Each one does the wine as he wants, or knows.Making wine has always been and will be a symbiosis of man with earth.Doing 300 million bottles of a wine seems to me an insult, but that you call industrialized who works with 15,000 bottles also seems exaggerated.Like everything in this life, it is a matter of balance.

"Natural wine" or "Ecological Wine"

It is considered 'natural wine' to the wine obtained with the minimum possible intervention, both in the cultivation of the vineyard (grape production), and in the winery (winemaking).The term is mainly used to distinguish this type of wine from ecological or organic wine, which are made with grapes from certified organic farming, but in the winery it can be made as any other wine, using all kinds of techniques and additives withinThe legal limits.

The definition of 'natural wine' generates enough controversy and has received many criticisms mainly due to the lack of official regulation, promoting the idea that the rest of wines are not.In fact, there is no official definition of the term by any organism.There is also no official regulation or certificate.Nor is there unanimity in terms of the definition of natural wine or by critics or the elaborators themselves, especially in terms of what is considered an acceptable level of intervention.On the contrary, there is an important cohesion within the sectors that defend the least interventionist line when cultivating the vine and preparing the wine, being represented in associations and in various events.

Más información
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Un hombre que sólo consumía vino natural fallece a los 107 años
¿Vino 'ecológico' quiere decir mejor?
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Carmen FernándezLicenciada en CC de la Información y especializada en enogastronomía y turismo